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Showing posts with label miniatures. Show all posts
Showing posts with label miniatures. Show all posts

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Painting WWII again

Aaron's got me interested in Too Fat Lardies' Chain of Command rules. The local group is playing in 28mm, so I'm painting up what little I have and buying a bit more to round out a platoon or two. I had a squad's worth of Germans in greatcoats from Old Glory half painted for a long time and a bag of four MG teams totally unstarted. To that I added a couple of bargain bin packs of Artizan German riflemen in Greatcoats I came across, which adds another 16 rifles. On the other side I had a box of Wargames Factory Chindits and a few Artizan LRDG that I had intended to use someday in the Savage Worlds adventure Day After Ragnarok. Added a few more bargain bin packs of LRDG and Aussies which will give me close to a platoon for North Africa if I paint the Chindits more Khaki and less green. Got the Germans and some of the LRDG & Aussies based last night on my favorite bases, 7/8" fender washers. This morning, they got a coat of thinned Aleene's tacky glue on the bases, a dip in a mixed pot of ballast and stone texture, a blast with a hair dryer to speed drying and some drying time, another coat of thinned glue on the base to lock down the texture, and another blast of hairdryer and some more drying time. Then out to the back yard table for priming. Army Painter white spray for the Aussies, Army Painter Uniform Gray for the Germans and a few Foundry Street Violence figs that tagged along. A bit of respraying laying down to better get the undercuts, and a bit of drying time, and into the shed for stain painting undercoats. The Commonwealth desert guys got a mix of cheap craft paint brown and tan colors and some water and satin finish for extra binder in the thinning water as their stain. The Germans got a mix of Payne's Grey, some of the leftovers from the Commonwealth brown mix, and some green & olive to warm the Payne's Grey a bit towards Feldgrau. With that all drying, I painted a bit of the excess stain onto some Bones monsters to see how it would go and to not waste the paint. This is what they look like at that point, with the stain still drying (the wetness is visible on some of the German bases).
 on :
There's a bunch more of the Germans and Stree Violence guys off to the right out of frame.

And here is what three of the Commonwealth guys look like after about 30-40 minutes of painting. Not done, but pretty good already and could show up in a game as is without embarrassment.  They're jumping the queue like mad on a bunch of pirates and Dark Ages guys, but when inspiration gets the brush working, go with it.


Made a bit more progress, getting the Feldgrau in on a lot of the Germans, during a DSL outage enforced lull in an online D&D game (Barrowmaze shoutout!). When you've been painting a lot of irregular figures like Dark Ages and pirates, its easy to forget how damn fast WWII uniforms can go.

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

More Camp Table Skirmish 10 point builds

Working up several more 10 pointers and then I'll start running them against each other in 5 vs 5 or 10 vs 10 matchups to get a feel for balance.

Slow Shooter, maybe a big arquebus or jezail on a stand
Points purchase
1 figure with 3" move
4 To hit +3
5 Range 15"

Fast Evasive Light Cavalry
Points purchase
1 figure
4 Move 15"
3 Dodge -2
2 To Hit +2

Heavy infantry
Points purchase
1 figure
1 Move 6"
2 Armor Save 5+
2 To Hit +2
2 Morale +2
2 2 Extra wounds

Blob monster - regenerating wound sponge
Points purchase
1 figure, move 3"
4 3 extra wounds
2 Regenerate
1 To Hit +1
2 Morale +2

Mobile Veteran Archer
Points purchase
1 figure
1 1 extra wound
1 Move 6"
1 can attack before move or during move
2 Move full and fire
3 Range 9"
1 To Hit +1

Warrior monk with naginata
Points purchase
1 figure
2 To hit +2
1 Long Reach
1 Move 6"
1 Extra wound
2 Morale +2
2 Dodge -2

Medium Cavalry
Points purchase
1 figure
3 Move 12"
1 Dodge -1
1 Armor Save 6+
2 To Hit +2
1 Morale +1
1 1 Extra wound

Apprentice Wizard
Points purchase
1 figure
1 Move 6"
1 Move 3" and fire
1 Dodge -1
3 Range 9"
2 To Hit +2
1 AOE 1" diameter

Novice Cleric
Points purchase
1 figure
1 Move 6"
1 Move 3" and fire
1 Dodge -1
1 Range 3"
1 To Hit +1
1 AOE 1" diameter
1 1 Extra wound
2 Can heal instead of attack

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Camp Table Skirmish Minimaxing time

So how breakable is this point system? What's the most potent 10 point figure you can make in Camp Table Skirmish?

Maybe this?
Dervish Mage
1 for figure
1 to move 6"
4 +3 to hit
3 AOE 2"  -- without range paid, this is a PBAOE.
1 extra wound

Might swap the extra wound for another 3" of movement to close faster or for "reach" to get to attack first at contact. Though, if they do the closing on figures that already moved, they would be able to burst without actually contacting for melee on their own location and catch enemies in the edge of the burst.

These would have to fight in a loose skirmish line, as I did not allow for AOEs to exclude hitting friends.
They would be vulnerable to faster ranged attackers, but devastating up close.

If they are too powerful, not excluding self from a PBAOE would probably do it.


I also noticed while going over the table that we accidentally cheated a bit in the playtest game, as written there is a cost to move and shoot in the same turn that I did not pay in the troop buy on the archers. Should put a note into the combat rules, not just the purchase table.

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Camp Table Skirmish Playtest Report

I dragooned my daughter into playing with me. She's played some RPGs before but this is the first minis game I've pulled her into. Haven't run many around home in a long while.

We played in a corner of my overburdened gaming and crafting table. Pushed enough crap out of the way to make a space about 3 feet on a side. Still have a lot of boxes and mess from the packing and unpacking of the convention game, looming at the edges of photos.

She chose the Orc side and decided to keep the first move I had made when I had started to solo before she joined in, rather than reset.

Found a few things to clean up in the rules, and have already typed in part of the fixes.

 The doughty village militia come from my Saga collection. The villains are a mix of old Games Workshop and similar figures from my D&D collection.




 At the end of the first move, the militia archers drew first blood, killing a couple of goblin spears, barely visible below the troll in the distance.


The troll and goblin spears moving faster than the orcs, the melee opened first on the left of this shot


A closer shot of the opening melee. I should have used a smaller figure for the troll or statted him with long reach.


General melee with the orcs getting the upper hand.



Both sides have thinned but the militia more so. Every melee orc that had to make an armor save on a 5-6 succeeded, leaving our hero Squire John quite frustrated with his sword that failed to bite again and again.



The end. Squire John is wounded and retreating across the bridge, just out of the shot to the left. With their spears all dead and enough archers down to reach 50%, an army morale check on an archer failed, ending the game. I didn't keep track, but it was about six or seven turns. It took about two hours.


Camp Table Miniature Campaign and Role Playing Rules

The Camp Table Skirmish Rules provide character design and combat mechanics. Instead of fighting head to head conventional skirmish battles, as a roleplaying game, one player will take on the role of gamemaster and other players will each have a player character or small band of characters. Decide on how many points each player gets to spend initially, and each builds a hero or a hero and some followers out of his points. About 10 points strikes me as similar in power to a traditional first level character.

As an RPG, the gamemaster will set up a map or maps to explore, and provide the challenges and opponents to overcome. As a miniatures campaign, veterans of previous games will get upgraded, and new reinforcements will need to be added as necessary from game to game. I may hack out another page on miniatures campaign scenario generation, but if you are thinking of playing this, you probably know the drill.

Character progression
These character progression rules could be used for either RPG play or miniatures campaign play. Track who killed what value of enemies. Split enemy values as appropriate when its a team effort, either each foe against all that hit it or the whole total value shared among the survivors.

After a battle your character gets experience build points that can be used for buying upgrades or banked for later upgrades.
You get a survival reward and a kills reward.

Survive a battle against a force of at least 80%  the value of your own. 1 point if it was a serious engagement.
Survive a battle against a force > 150% of your own. 2 points.

Kill at least your own value in enemies in the battle. 1 point.
Kill double your own value 2 points.

GM awards
The GM can grant additional points as seems fit. Treasures, mission, story, and roleplaying success are all likely reasons to add a build point or two in the course of a session.

Non combat challenges
Resolving challenges outside the scope of the combat rules: Wing it. Seriously. At this level of resolution, if randomness of success seems appropriate to you as a GM, pick a target number that makes sense and who rolls the die. Standardize or elaborate anything you like. Borrow as appropriate from anything at the lower end of the detail spectrum. It would be kind of silly to connect this game up to anything with very much detail to it.



Playtest scenario for Camp Table Skirmish

Okay, so I slapped together a semblance of the game. Now its time to start playtesting. Would love to hear back from anybody else that tries the rules (or even just reads them) as well.

So here's a starting scenario a bit more elaborate than a straight up point out two sides and fight.

The Orc Raid on Millbridge

Most of the village of Millbridge lies off the bottom of this map across the stream. The mill itself is on the map. The villagers are warned of the oncoming raid by the smoke and refugee children from the burning neighboring village Offmap Tragedy to the north and have rallied to defend their homes.




Right off the bat, I'll have to account for some new terrain types.

Road +3" move if all along the road and not flying.
Bridge counts as road.
Woods - standard slowing and missile defense bonus
Marshy Field - slowing only
River - slowing only.
Building - slowing, 2 points of defense vs missiles and melee vs people outside. No combat penalties if both combatants inside. It can be set alight by enemies remaining in contact for a full turn and rolling less than or equal to the number of enemies in contact with the building at the end of the turn. Once alight it can be put out by a bucket brigade of  friends on the outside and in contact with the river, each other, and the building and rolling the same way. If it burns for three turns after the turn it was set alight, it is burning so fiercely that it can no longer be put out and can be considered destroyed. Anyone still inside at that point dies. Torchers and bucket brigade cannot attack and defend at -1.

Orcs will enter from the top of the map.
Millbridge militia will deploy in the bottom third of the map.

The Orc objective is to sweep away the defenders and pillage the village. The militia seek to drive them off.

Millbridge Militia  100 points
10 Human Light Peasant Spearmen 40 pt
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
Long reach +1
Armor save 6 +1
Total cost 4 @

8 Human Light Peasant Archers 48 pt
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
Range 9" +3
Dodge -1 to attacker, +1
Total cost 6 @

Squire John (borrowing stats from Dwarven Veteran and bumping up a step of movement)
Figure +1
Move 9" +2
Armor save 4+, +4
Extra wound +1
+2 to hit, +2
Morale +2, +2
Total cost 12 @

Orcs of the Black Goat  100 pt
Gaghash the Troll Bruiser 23 pt
Figure +1
Move 9" +2
Throw 3" +1, stationary only
+2 to Hit +2
Armor save 4+, +4
4 wounds to kill +4
Morale +4, +4
Regenerate wounds +2
Inflict 2 wounds on a hit +3
Total cost 23 @

6 Choppers - swords and axes  30 pt
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
+1 to hit    +1
Armor save 5+,   +2
Total cost 5 @

8 Goblin Stickers - spear fodder  32 pt
Figure +1
Move 9" +2
Long reach +1
Total cost 4 @

3 Shooters - bows   15
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
Range 9" +3
Total cost 5 @



Thursday, November 14, 2013

Camp Table Fantasy Skirmish Rules

A few years back, I had a big box of D&D prepainted plastic figures and some dice along on our trip to Tuolumne Family Camp, planning to play D&D. One warm afternoon during "quiet time", I hacked out a set of fantasy skirmish rules and my son and I statted up several skirmish squads for it and we played a few  good games. After returning, I misplaced the handwritten version of the rules and don't find a copy on my laptop so I'm going to attempt to recreate them from memory, with a bit of rebalancing, mainly in scaling up costs for extra purchases of some of the powers. This version is currently unplaytested so I'll play with it awhile and edit this post as I adjust the balance.

Building an Army
For a small skirmish, give each player 100 points to buy figures. Most expensive figure not to exceed 33 points, and at least 50 points in figures costing 12 or less each. Ideally figures are costed out to be representative of their fantasy types, and not minimaxed, but gamers will be gamers, so if minimaxing is a risk, stat up several squads and select which squad will be played by each player randomly.

Each figure starts at 1 point. It hits on a d6 roll of 6 and dies to a single hit. It has no ranged attack, and must be in contact to fight. It moves 3 inches per turn. It has no armor save.

They will test morale at the end of the turn and pass on a 5+ on a d6, modified by any morale bonuses. Failed morale rolls by 1 recoil a half move. Fail by 2 and retreat a full move. Fail by 3 or more and the figure will rout a full move each turn until it passes a rally morale check or leaves the table.

Everything else is paid in additional points. Where there are a series of bonuses, the first time you take it has the first cost, the second time for the figure the second cost etc.

Add 3" to movement distance +1, can be repeated up to 4 times
Flight +2 per 3" of movement
Add 3" to combat range, with a missile weapon or magic +1, up to 5 times, stationary fire unless paid below
Add ranged fire combined with half move +1, full move +2
Add the ability to attack before move or during move instead of at end of move +1
Add 1 to the roll to hit, +1, +1, +2, +2, +3
Add  1" to diameter of area of effect of attacks, up to 3 times. +1,  +2,  +3
Add an armor save, starting with roll of 6, then +1 to roll for each improvement,  +1, +1, +2, +2
Add +1 to morale test roll, +1
Add dodge of attacks -1 to attack rolls against this figure, +1, +2, +3, +4
Add a "wound" that can be suffered before death +1, +1, +2, +2, +3, +3 etc
Regenerate or heal a wound on roll of 6 at the end of the turn +2
Heal other figure of 1 wound as attack action +2
Long reach, can fight two ranks deep and front rank can attack first in first round of melee unless opponent is also long reach +1
Inflict additional wound(s) with attack +2, +4

Sequence of Play
Roll for initiative, D6, ties to to the guy that did not have initiative last time.
Alternate movement, winner first, moving individual figures or groups of figures that are within 1" cohesion distance between bases. In group moves, individual figures are only limited by their individual maximum move distances, but cohesion must be maintained for figures to move together.
After both have moved, unengaged ranged characters shoot, tallying any hits before shooters are removed. Newly engaged ranged figures can also shoot at figures that moved into contact with them, but will forego melee attacks this round to do so.
Long reach attackers attack if in a first turn of contact.
All other melee attacks are made.
Take all morale checks and make any retreat moves.
Army morale test if needed.

Movement
Movement to contact must be by most direct route, only wrapping around enough to make room for additional attackers, except for move-by attacks by eligible figures, which can go past a figure and through gaps big enough for the width of their base.


Combat
Dodges or terrain effects may raise to hit numbers above 6. To hit higher numbers, any roll of a 6 is eligible to roll again, adding 5 from the original roll. So if an 8 is needed, roll a 6 and reroll and get a 3 or higher. If a number above 11 is needed, a second roll of 6 will allow 10 to be kept and a third roll added.
Make all melee attacks by figures with long reach in their first round of contact and remove their casualties.
Then make all other melee attacks.

Area effect attackers resolve against each target in the area. If their attack is a multiple wound attack it applies the multiple wound effect to each figure that it hits. Single target melee attackers with a multiple wound effect apply it all to one figure if it takes multiple wounds, or can spread wounds to adjacent single wound enemies. Each would get its own armor save if applicable, and some are harder to hit for reasons of dodge or terrain, it only spreads to them if they would be hit by the attack roll.

Morale tests
Mark all figures that have a friendly figure that costs at least half as much die within 2" and all multihit figures that are freshly wounded this turn. Use a special mark when the lost figure is worth double the figure(s) that will test.

Morale test table:
Roll one morale test if marked, additional losses do not require additional tests
Pass on modified 5+
4 - recoil half a move, facing enemy
3 - retreat one move, facing enemy
2 or less - rout full move, face away, test again at end of next turn and rout again unless passed

Modifiers to morale rolls
Morale bonus paid as cost of figures
-1 if wounded
-2 if wounded and next hit will kill the figure
-1 if testing for the loss of a friend worth double own cost or more

A side that has lost more than half its points makes an army morale test at the morale rating of a randomly selected survivor after individual checks and retreats are resolved in any turn in which it has taken additional casualties, losing the battle if it fails the check. If both armies test and fail on the same turn, its a draw.

Terrain
Keeping it minimal with only area terrain to begin with. Areas can either provide cover, -1 to hit targets on edge, block ranged shots at targets more than a base depth in, or slow movement by half, minimum speed is still 3", or both. Height advantage gives a similar defense bonus in melee. Might want to add another cost for skirmish movement that ignores terrain movement penalties.

We played the original on a 3 x 3 foot card table with a few terrain areas in each game up to about 9" across in size.


Example figure costs

Human peasant spearman with shield
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
Long reach +1
Armor save 6 +1
Total cost 4

Human light peasant archer
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
Range 9" +3
Dodge -1 to attacker, +1
Total cost 6

Dwarven veteran
Figure +1
Move 6" +1
Armor save 4+, +4
Extra wound +1
+2 to hit, +2
Morale +2, +2
Total cost 11

Elven elite horsebow
Figure +1
Move 15" +4
Range 15" +4
+2 To Hit,  +2
Armor save 5+,  +2
Dodge -2,  +3
Extra wound +1
Full move and fire +2
Morale +3, +3
Attack before or during move +1
Total cost 23

Troll Bruiser
Figure +1
Move 9" +2
Throw 3" +1, stationary only
+2 to Hit +2
Armor save 4+, +4
4 wounds to kill +4
Morale +4, +4
Regenerate wounds +2
Inflict 2 wounds on a hit +3
Total cost 23

Fireballing Wizard
Figure +1
Move 12" +3
Range 15" +5  but stationary only, all that mystic powering up, so not buying moving fire
Attack Area 3" diameter +6
3 wounds +2
Dodge -4 (mists, mirror images, and nimble) +10
Regenerate +2
Morale +2, +2
Total 31

Goblin with firepots
Figure +1
Move 9" +2
Range 3" +1
Move full and attack +2
1" diameter attack +1
Total 7






Friday, November 1, 2013

Well, that was a flop

Got to Conquest Avalon early and well enough prepared. Spent the afternoon setting up dungeon scenery and troops. Was satisfied with the look and the map topology being good for a wargame mini-sandbox.

 The minis room was thinly attended. Had a lot of compliments on the look of the game, but no players. Was outcompeted by the Zombiecide game for minis players of a non-historical bent.

It looked really good, and having it all set up, it became evident it would have looked even better with a black or grey groundcloth underneath it all. Will do that next time I set up a table full of dungeon.  

Next time I do a big dungeon convention game, I'm going to do it under the aegis of the RPG part of the convention I think. More likely to get takers that way. 

Soloed a couple turns while waiting around to see if anybody would take an interest, and worked out a few more tweaks to it. Will get some pictures up in a bit.

Bummer...

Saturday, October 26, 2013

More Dwarven Forge terrain done

A couple more photos. This time I laid out pretty much all the new stuff that is done, and the diagonal halls and some doors from the prepainted stuff. Looks like I can cover about 3" by 3" with this, will fill in the rest of the Chainmail table with Malifaux Terraclips, Mastermaze (if I lug that) and some homebrew terrain. One more batch of this stuff in the cool palette is on the paint table now.... Postscript, finished up after these pics.


Next up, clear the gaming table to work on the layout for the Chainmail game.

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

My Chainmail game is on for Conquest Avalon in Sacramento

I'm running a battle in a dungeon using the old Chainmail rules at Conquest Avalon in Sacramento November 1st. The scenario is gelling in my head and I'll be fleshing it out on the home tabletop this weekend, and working up more of Dwarven Forge scenery for part of the dungeon. Will have a table full of a mix of Dwarven Forge, Terraclips, and homebrew scenery. This post is basically thinking out loud as to work out scenario details.

 It will use the man to man combat tables at the back of the Chainmail rules, with some monsters that use the fantasy combat table. I'm pretty fresh on the rulebook, having used Chainmail combat rules for my old school D&D game at Pacificon last month.

I signed up to host up to 8, so I have a choice of four options for sides. Everyone vs everyone with spontaneous alliances and each having a mission goal, 4 vs 4, 2 vs 2 vs 2 vs 2, or 3 vs 3 with a couple of spoilers/loose cannons.  Given the setting, I'm thinking to do the last option.

 The main factions, probably Dwarves and Goblins, are both  resident in different parts of a megadungeon. The tabletop representing a level between their home territories that until very recently was protected by powerful magical wards that have precipitously and mysteriously dropped. After a curious dwarf and a similarly suicidal goblin come out of the no-man's level with loot, the gold rush is on! Both factions move in. Meanwhile a smaller force of adventurers comes delving opportunistically, and a monstrous faction emerges from below searching for loot, power, fresh meat, and slaves. If I come up short of players,

Of course it is a classic dungeon, so there are local monsters and traps to beset the unwary looters. Whoever dies first or if there are alternates, one or two extra players can play revealed creatures, or I'll use them as a GM tool. A few might even be potential allies depending on who encounters them. I might have some conflicting individual goals to make for uneasy alliances among the main faction players. The flavor from the delving party perspective ought to be that of a low-res D&D run into the middle of an active war zone.

As I remember from playing a lot of Chainmail many years ago, dwarves are worth about 2 goblins or one orc apiece, so that is my rule of thumb for balancing. So one player might have, say 15 dwarves and a hero dwarf leader, or an ogre plus 15 orcs or 30 goblins, maybe trading away some of the goblins for warg riders at 2 for 1. Will need to take into account the dwarf bonus vs ogres and how I implement it at man to man scale in working out whether an ogre approximately equals a hero. Will need to rank up my figures this weekend to see how many goblins I can field, though swapping out one group for orcs and possibly another for all ogres or something would let me bulk up a bit. It's a pretty lethal combat system once things get engaged, which pushes for big numbers but dungeon hallways restrict frontages unless a player is advancing along multiple routes, so forces shouldn't get too big. The Terraclips stuff has a natural 3" and 6" width of halls and rooms, Dwarven Forge tends towards a 3" space, 2 half squares with wall and two whole squares where the tiles meet between two L walls, or 2" where a walls are separated by a pure floor tile.  3" is a frontage of 3 or 4 figures depending on basing, with a few able to fight from the second rank, so a Dwarven warband like the above would be 4 to 5 ranks if massed in a typical hallway.

I can set up a card for each group with stats, including the portion of the man to man tables they will most likely need, for instance the goblins only really need to hit numbers for each weapon vs chainmail and chain and shield for most attacks, with the full table consulted for the rare other armors amongst the dwarves or other enemies.

Chainmail had awesomely powerful wizards with unlimited fireball or lightning attacks plus a few spells. With factions this small, I'll have to tone that down a bit or avoid spellcasters. Not much fun to see half your goblins go up in a fireball.

I don't have a formal map yet, but I know the characteristics it should have and did a bit of crude sketching. There should be very few door bottlenecks that would constrict the frontage to just one or two for one side, as they lead to stagnant ambush setups. Doors would mostly be into surprise rooms and possibly some narrow secondary routes.  It needs to be a highly networked dungeon so there is plenty of opportunities for lateral or flanking moves. There should be some big central chambers where battles can broaden out with multiple entrances. I'll probably do some second elevation stuff on the main map but not a full break out of two dungeon level maps with notional stairway linkage. I'm thinking about whether to have some of the map covered initially for some double blindness to the action or if the spectacle of an exposed dungeon is preferable. Probably the latter. Maybe just cover isolated rooms or the middle part of the map until it is explored. The two long sides of the table would have the entrance zones of the big factions, and the small ones either enter from the short sides or vertically somewhere in the middle.

Objectives... The two big sides will each score for killing their hated enemy, but not for killing the smaller sides. Everybody scores for finding loot which will be scattered around. The delvers probably score double for loot, monsters from below score for killing, capturing or recruiting anybody. Probably set up one to three strategic rooms that have value to being "King of the Dungeon" and holding at the end. Personal goals like rival goblin clans or dwarven hero bands that want to see themselves do better than a particular ally on some goal. Some valuable portable maguffin. A couple of entertaining magic items.

I'll probably use some variant on the basic morale rules to give some ebb and flow to combat between rounds, with recoils being a possible result after some losses, so it isn't pure rush up, grind down in a stationary fight to morale checks, and then melt away in a rout.

If short of players, the sides adjust something like:

7 Drop the monsters from below, reintroduce if somebody wanders up.
6 Put them back but only have two dwarf and two goblin factions.
5 Do both reductions above.
4 Have all four sides, with dwarf and goblin players each getting about half a player's group extra.
3 Like 4 without the monsters faction or I play the monsters faction.
2 Just line up all the dwarves on one side and all the goblin/orc faction on the other, drop the internal competition goals. Introduce reduced delver and/or monster factions on autopilot die rolls.
1 I fill in for one side in the two sided scenario.

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Dwarven Forge Dwarvenite Dungeons

I backed the Dwarven Forge Kickstarter for their new Dwarvenite terrain pieces. I am entirely satisfied with the majority that I got unpainted. The pre-painted stuff less so. What bugs me about the prepainted stuff is how they left out the gray maincoat that would make it match the older Mastermaze scenery reasonably well. Instead the new stuff appears to have the olive drybrush layer directly over the black Dwarvenite and picked out detail stones for a very high contrast look.  I might repaint some of it to be more similar to Mastermaze standards. Also I'd have preferred the metal bits of chests and doors to be a duller iron or steel color rather than a bright silver, so I'm going over the hardware bits with a gunmetal color to dull them down a bit.

Anyway, I painted some of the new stuff in a cooler gray, aiming to be a bit more compatible, and part in a warmer earth tone palette for some contrasting sections.

Here is how they came out. I ended up kind of bracketing the old Mastermaze color scheme.



Warm scheme



Cool scheme


That's a piece of Mastermaze at the back left of the gray pieces for comparison of how they came out. They would look more similar if I'd used a lighter undercoat gray and more of a more olive highlight.


I really enjoyed painting these up. They go very quickly. So far I put in about 6 hours on Saturday and 2-3 tonight and have a lot of playable pieces and and started off another batch in the warm scheme tonight, after finishing up the drybrush layer on the cool scheme pieces.




Each batch had a medium to dark undertone, a contrasting color to pick out blocks, and a lighter color drybrushed over. The main color in the warm scheme is the pick out block color in the cool scheme. The pickout color in the warm scheme is a brick red-brown. The warm scheme got a tan drybrush highlight. The cool scheme got a light gray with some olive in it for the highlight.




Monday, October 21, 2013

Looking for a friend, Found my old rules

Over my morning coffee, I started a little web search to try to get back in touch with old gaming buddy Kerry Hanscom who moved away to Arizona something like 8 years ago. I'd subsequently lost his email address when changing jobs.

A search on his name turned it up in the acknowledgements in my Rencounter rules set, which I found as a PDF at miniaturewargaming.com. I'm glad to see them still available.

Back in '95 I started Ed's Hobby Hovel, a gaming and pre-blog personal website on which I cut my teeth at HTML, CGI programming, connecting databases to the web, and such arcana. It was a passion project, getting wargaming stuff onto the web when there was pretty much none. At first it was Bill Armintrout and me and a few other pioneers, now the blogs are legion. It ran initially off of my desktop Mac while I worked at Stanford as a programmer and sysadmin, and then hummed along on the desk behind me after I upgraded to a new machine for my work. It was a pretty good deal for Stanford too, as everything I learned plowed back into helping other programmers and scientists webify their projects. The Yeast Deletion Project database inherited technologically directly from the Wargame Opponent Finder. After many long years in service, that machine Tetrad wore out and I never got around to standing the site back up on another computer.

One of the core pages of The Hobby Hovel was the Rencounter Skirmish Rules which I had evolved as a club set starting from the classic Colonial Skirmish Wargame Rules 1850-1900.  After many experiments with alternate approaches to sequencing, I eventually swapped out the combat rules for my own, so as to have something that was inspired by the Colonial set, but not infringing on it. And I've been partial to D12 based mechanics for a few decades now, since first playing Starguard.

Reposting Hobby Hovel content, and especially these rules has been one of my many backburnered projects, so its nice I can simply link to them while I procrastinate on the project of working up another version, with improved production values and the later variant of the combat system.


Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Smugglers' Docks Camera Test


Took a bunch of pics tonight of figures I might use for Smuggler's Docks.  Used an old Nikon Coolpix 4200, which can do pretty good macro photos, but had no good lighting set up. Did a few with the flash and the rest with room light only, which came out really yellow. Did not set up tripod, just rested camera on the tabletop. Tried some color correction in iPhoto, but will really have to reshoot the lot outdoors or with some serious lights. Also played some with cropping and matting in iPhoto. Will replace all of these with better photos and work the final photos into final group sheets with stats. Anyway it made for a fun evening of experimentation, and gave me a chance to do some graphical content beyond that cheesy map sketch. 




 
Need more steps of matting if I'm going to do it at all. Euripides Club. Flash photo. 
 
Ditto. I think this Foundry guy is supposed to be Bat Masterson, but he'll do for English if the star is ignored.

Same figure without flash. Really yellow. Looked better on back of camera. That's a blurry mechanical man from the GURPS steampunk set in the background. 


 
His Lordship'ss face needs some reworking.

This gent'ss hat is dinged up and needs retouching. He's a RAFM ACW duelling officer.


 
Why does this guy's face always come in out of focus? It was like this in several shots. I guess he's leaning forward a bit and depth of field is negligible, with autofocus getting the sword hand or body right. Will have to focus on his face in the reshoot.  Gave him a lots of push towards cool coloring to try to offset some of the yellowing. Didn't really help. He's the likely initial President of the Euripides club, anyway.

 
If I remember right, this guy is a Foundry Franco Prussian War civilian. He'll do for a long arm in the Euripides Club.

 
Another E.C. member with a battered hat needing touchup. He's the same officer figure as above with the hat cut down and sabre removed.

 
The doctor seems more likely an NPC but could be among the Gentlemen in a pinch.

 
Mad scientist, first appeared in my Pacificon Deadlands game a couple years ago. No scenario role yet. I forget where he comes from. 40K maybe?


 
Another mad scientist with an infernal device and weird armor. Possibly for use later when there are more points in play for fancier devices. A Malifaux figure.

Not exactly a gentleman, more of a Quatermain in Africa sort. But I like him a lot. Looks like 6 steps of matting is enough. But I see some at the corners, so maybe I color corrected after matting?

This pirate isn't finished yet, but he's starting to look presentable. There are several more on my painting table about this far along.

I'm fond of this pirate. Will either have to call that gun a heavy pistol or pay for it as a blunderbuss.

This Ral Partha pirate is done mostly in inks, recently finished up.

 
The hounds for the Cossack version of the Wolfen Jaeger

Foundry Frei Korps Kapitan

Frei Korps Officer

Foundry Darkest Africa guy, has a musket on his back, will probably be in Pirate crew.

Cossack with blunderbuss. The Cossacks and Frei Korps were originally paired opponents so could do an Eastern European port or docks in a river town and use Cossacks for the Pirate side in Cutlass sometimes I suppose. Seems to be the only Cossack photo of the batch that I uploaded, aside from the dogs.


Arab or Turkish pirate.

 Frei korps musketeer. More like him and some in other poses. Its a nice pack for skirmish gaming. 

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Smugglers' Docks 4: A Marine Squad and a Pirate Gang for Black Scorpion's Cutlass Rules

Cutlass is the second set of rules I plan to try in the Smugglers' Docks scenario.

For it I intend to assemble a Pirates Gang and Royal Marines squad (off the Royal Navy list, but doing all officers and marines, no sailors). At least initially, the Marines will be represented by an old squad of Foundry Prussian Frei Korps.

Building a campaign starter force for one player in Cutlass is very similar to doing so for Empire of the Dead. You'll have a list of leaders and troops to buy and equipment to arm them with. The budget is $500 but they explain the "dollar" unit is a convenience and can be what you want it to be, pieces of eight or whatever.
The prices for people are all higher than in Empire of the Dead, but the equipment is similar so the force size will work out a bit bigger.

The Marines being more uniform, let's consider them first.
Captain $86 Level 7
Officer - $58 Level 5
5 Marines @$44 Level 3 $220
1 Able Seaman $36 Level 1
Will detail the stats and skills later.

$400 for personnel leaves $100 for gear.

Brace of 2 Duelling Pistols and a Longsword for the Captain $16 + $5 = $21
Brace of 2 Ship's Pistols and a Longsword for the Officer $12 + $5 = $17
Musket, Bayonet $7 + 5 = $12  x 5 = $60
Cudgel for Able Seaman - free

$98, banking $2


Pirates
Pirate Captain  $86 Level 7
Officer - $58 Level 5
3 Pirates @$44 Level 3 $132
3 Rogues @$36 Level 1 $108

$384 for the crew, leaves $116 for gear.

Brace of 2 Duelling Pistols, a Cutlass, and a Dagger for the Captain $16 + $4 + $4 = $24
Brace of 2 Duelling Pistols, a Cutlass, and a Dagger for the Officer  $16 + $4 + $4 = $24
Musket, Cutlass $7 + 4 = $11
Brace of Ship's Pistols and Cutlass $12 + 4 = $16
Ship's Pistol and Cutlass $6 + $4 = 10
Cutlass + Dagger  $8
Axe +  Dagger $8
Two Cutlasses $8
----
That's $109 so  $7 left, buy the Captain an Amulet for $5 and bank $2


All the lists in Cutlass have the same level/costing distribution, differing in details of the stats, skills, and special rules for each faction, but they have a formula to buy figures by each statistic and skill, so you could be more freeform.

There are a lot fewer equipment options in Cutlass than in Empire of the Dead, and the list tends to provide slightly larger groups, though you could stock up on up to four level 5s, the 7 leader, and fewer 1s and 3s to end with six or seven guys. In either game, paint twenty figures and you can play two sides with a few options.

Now its time to start taking some pictures...





Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Smugglers' Docks part 3: Wulfen Jaeger for Empire of the Dead

The Euripides Club will need opposition. I have some Cossack figures and some Irish Wolfhounds that will do fine for Wulfen Jaeger from a bit farther east. Their costumes are a bit different, and similarly early in style, and their weapons match well. Google Translate says they are Volka Okhotniki. 

I'm purchasing a list at 150 points to match. 10 off the top pays for being a Gentlemen's Club variant.
They'll have +1 Combat and -1 shooting, so should go for a lot of melee weapons in the mix. +1 Bravado vs supernatural creatures. They can buy wolfhounds for 20 points each as subordinates. 

Digging through Wikipedia, looks like we can call the group a Plastun.
Starshina - Leader (seems to be more of a sergeant later) as President  20
Chorąży  - a junior officer as as Secretary 15
Two Wolfhounds 2 x 20 = 40
Two Cossacks 2 x 10 = 20

This leave 45 for equipment.

Blunderbuss as a Sawn off 6
Hunting Rifle 10
Two Heavy Pistols   14
4 Swords 12
3 Knives  3

Each will get a gun and a sword, three will have knives.








Monday, September 30, 2013

Smugglers' Docks, part 2: Putting together a starter faction for Empire of the Dead

The Factions in the original book and figure substitutions:

  • Holy Orders - could do these initially out of some Paladin and Cleric figures from D&D
  • Lycaon - Werewolves
  • Nosferatu - Vampires, maybe some D&D villains and rogues for thralls, D&D bat swarms, evil cleric maybe for Guardian
  • Gentlemen's Club - Victorian Gents with a few Mad Scientist figures, can field out of colonials and old west figures to start
  • Sons of the Empire - Gents, Darkest Africa adventurers and British officers would do
  • The Darkfire Club - Evil gentleman's club & Zombie mobs - Would have to paint some figs for the human component, possibly out of Malifaux, have enough zombies to fake it, and the actual set to paint
  • Wulfen Jaeger - field from Cossacks
  • Zendarian - field from colonial Germans or Russians
The last four are all variants of the Gentlemen's Club that cost extra for special features.

Setting up a Gentlemen's Club

The Gentlemen's Club seems to be the most basic faction, so let's see how goes together. The recommended starting budget is 150 shillings, +50 for statistic and skill upgrades if you want to start with more experienced factions. I'll go with the base 150. The basic Gentlemen's Club is a neutral faction. One third, rounded up can be heroes, including the leader, so:

The President 20
Vice President 15
The Secretary 15
Members x 5 @ 10 = 50

That's 100 for personnel, so 50 left for gear. We have three equipment lists to consult, Generic equipment p.92, Exotic equipment, p.95, and Gentlemen's club weapons, p. 78 The three heroes can use exotic equipment, but not the membership.

First cut at buying gear:
Heavy Pistol and Sword for President   7 + 3
Repeating Rifle for Vice President 10
Lt Pistol and Silver ammo for Secretary 5 + 5
Member with Knife and Torch 1 + 2
Member with Light Pistol 5
Member with Axe 3
Member with Sword 3
Member with Volleygun 6

They'll need a name for the club, and for each character, and a card listing them with a statistics bar for each.
The stats bars will look familiar to anybody who has played any form of Warhammer or its descendants, differing in details.

The Euripides Club (apologies to A.C. Doyle)
Not feeling inspired at name generation tonight, I do a bit of web searching and come across The Victorian and Steampunk Name Generator and generate a few lists from their different social groups, from which to weed down.

Lord L. Swords Trente - President
Alexander Robinett Demalynes IV - VP
Sir Cattermole Elders Jessop - Sec'y

Saunderson Binstead III
Perry Gormackin Hynde
Bartholomew Willis Reade Jr.
Montague Fleetwood Meredith Jr.
Rev. Newell Crohill Shirwode

The Euripides Club as above is going for maximizing on numbers, especially the number of heroes, so it is a bit weak on the equipment side, which is also weighted towards the heroes. Should it succeed in early encounters, its first order of business will be to gear up until everyone has firearms and then start picking up some of the generic and exotic equipment.

Within the current 100 + 50 distribution, it could do something like this to get more guns:
Drop the silver ammo, and replace the members' axe and torch with two light pistols.
Replace the repeating rifle with a shotgun for 8, and upgrade the member with sword to a light pistol.

Doing both would look like:
Heavy Pistol and Sword for President   7 + 3
Shotgun for Vice President 8
Volleygun for Secretary 6
Member with Knife and Lt Pistol 1+5
Member with Light Pistol 5
Member with Light Pistol 5
Member with Light Pistol 5
Member with Light Pistol 5

I think I'll go with that instead, so:

Lord L. Swords Trente - President with Heavy Pistol and Sword
Alexander Robinett Demalynes IV - Vice President with Shotgun
Sir Cattermole Elders Jessop - Sec'y with Volleygun

Saunderson Binstead III, Member with Knife and Light Pistol
Perry Gormackin Hynde, Member with Light Pistol
Bartholomew Willis Reade Jr., Member with Light Pistol
Montague Fleetwood Meredith Jr., Member with Light Pistol
Rev. Newell Crohill Shirwode, Member with Light Pistol

The gearing up path will start with obtaining more long arms.

I'll add in the stat bars later.

Smugglers' Docks, part 1

Here's a little plan I've been mulling over. Posting it to spur myself onward in execution. I want to get started again in miniatures skirmish gaming, and build a scenery setup I can use for a few games and do some rules comparison on. Three rules sets will be in the first go. West Wind's "Empire of the Dead" is one I have been reading for several months without actually getting a game together. The theme is Victorian Steampunk/Horror and it is a campaign oriented set of skirmish rules along the lines of Necromunda or Mordheim. I have some of the figures for it unpainted and a miscellaneous collection of 28mm stuff in various genres that I can use to fake it until I get around to painting those and the ones coming from their recent Kickstarter. Black Scorpion's "Cutlass" is the second contender. It is a pirates/fantasy pirates themed set of campaign oriented skirmish rules. I have been painting some pirates lately, with a Pathfinder Skull and Shackles campaign I have been playing in as the proximate driver and Cutlass as a secondary goal. So that's what I'll be using for them.

The last is my own Rencounter rules that used to be up on my Hobby Hovel site and have been awaiting renewed attention and reposting for close to a decade now. Rencounter is a skirmish rules toolchest for anything up to around 1900, as automatic small arms and modern grenades are two elements I never really integrated. Hopefully I will find enough inspiration to get it back up on the web.

Given those disparate sets of rules, and some prepainted dock terrain pieces from a post-Christmas sale I never got around to using, my plan so far is to set up a coastal town docks area with half timbered buildings suitable for a pirate town or old backwater smuggler's village in the 19th Century.

The roughest outline of an initial scenario is that one faction will be smuggling cargo ashore in the middle of the night, while a second faction that is either the local lawful authorities or a rival gang that has tumbled to their plans charges out of ambush to arrest them or steal the cargo.

Goals:
  • Organize factions for each rules set that can be used to start campaigns.
  • Finish up enough pirates for two factions, roughly 24.
  • Craft whatever scenery & ships I need to round out the stuff I have on hand.
  • Sort out from the existing collection and then paint figs for Empire of the Dead trial games.
  • Run some games with the usual suspects or drag in some of the guys I usually only see at conventions.
  • Write some rules reviews, comparisons, battle reports, and general discussion of skirmish rules design here.
  • Get back into minis photography by posting some pics of the figs for these games.
  • Have a scenario that I can post here for each game and use for convention games.
  • Both Cutlass and Empire of the Dead are essentially two player games. Look for or put together multiplayer sequence variants that can boost each up to around 6 players for a typical convention game.
  • Possibly extend the comparison to some other skirmish sets.

Friday, March 8, 2013

Saga Weekend

Saturday March 9
Gamescape North in San Rafael has Saga and Bolt Action on their calendar from 2PM, Saga 3-6PM. I'll be there with my Vikings.

Sunday March 10
Endgame in Oakland hosts Saga starting at 11 AM. I'm planning to make this one too.

I have nice new berserks fresh off the painting table & ready to break some heads.